Like so many traditional Provençale dishes, there are at least as many ways to prepare Bourride as there are cooks preparing it. The traditional concept calls for fish and shellfish served in a fish based broth thickened with aïoli. The name stems from the Occitan bourrido, boulido both from the Latin bullire, all simply meaning boiled. The innumerable variations specify different types of fish, shellfish, stock, garnish… In nicer, read more expensive, restaurants on the Côte d’Azur for example, whole fish might be used and fileted tableside along with lobster and langoustines in a fine fumé whereas a more humble seaside shack fish house would probably use clams and chunks of monkfish in an intensely garlicky broth. Similar to boulliabaisse (rooted in boiled, of course) but much less specific in it’s use of the local, bony Marseillaise fish like rascasse and the use of Provençale seasonings like dried orange peel and saffron.
My version is a simple one based on a clam broth with simple garnishes; just fresh herbs and an aïoli infused crostino. I use generally just one but no more than two fin fish, prawns and sometimes a few mussels along with the clams. My preference is monkfish if possible but firm, white fish like halibut, sea bass and black cod make excellent substitutes. The clam stock is quick and easy and the earthy, sweet flavors really make a great, complex base for the other components.
As you might suspect, the preparation of this dish is a great reason to open lots of rosé for lots of good friends though I have other favorite wines which change with the seasons. My current faves are:
Brunet Vouvray Pétillant “Le Naturel” NV buy it here
Domaine La Paleine Saumur Blanc “Scherzo” 2008 buy it here
Philippe Bornard Côtes du Jura Savagnin “Les Marnes” 2005 buy it here
Donkey & Goat Pinot Noir “Broken Leg Vineyard” Anderson Valley 2009 buy it here
La Bourride
3 lbs manila clams + 1 lb mussels, scrubbed well 1 ½ lbs firm white fish filets cut into 3oz portions which can be handled by your fishmonger. I prefer monkish but sea bass, black cod, halibut and the like are just fine. 16 large prawns or shrimp at least 1 oz each deveined through the shell which should be left on. 1 large leek trimmed, cleaned and scrubbed to remove dirt and chopped coarsely, greens and all. 1 medium bulb of fennel, with fronds, sliced thinly 1 stick celery sliced fine with lots of leaves 8 sprigs of thyme 1 bay leaf 10 peppercorns 10 sprigs of parsley washed and chopped including stems 8 cloves of garlic peeled and crushed lightly 2 whole shallots sliced finely 1 cup of dry white wine grapeseed (preferably) or olive oil for searing fish 1 baguette, sliced thinly on a very steep bias to create long crostini. total of half cup minced parsley and chives aïoli (recipe at bottom) Layer all vegetables in a medium sauce pan in a a tight bunch with smaller things like peppercorns, herbs and garlic on the bottom. Add ½ cup of the wine and just enough water to cover then place clams and mussels on top and put on a high flame and cover. When you hear the clicking of the shellfish opening, remove lid from pan and remove them as they open to prevent overcooking. Set them in a bowl on the side. When finished, remove pan from heat, cover and let rest at the back of the stove. This should steep for at least a half hour. Strain clam stock and place back in cleaned sauce pan. You may have to add a bit of water to get the desired amount, roughly 3/4 cup per serving. Drizzle a bit of olive oil on crostini slices, sprinkle a little salt and a grind of pepper and toast on a baking sheet until just golden. If fish has a skin side, scrape against the grain with the back of a large knife until dry, this could take a few passes. In a heavy roasting pan over two burners, heat oil on high heat until shimmering. Season non skin side of fish with salt and pepper and place in pan, skin side down if applicable, but don’t crowd the pan. For 1.5 inch filets, cook 4 minutes on one side and turn to cook one minute on other. In the meantime, bring stock to a simmer and add clams to warm, about 30 seconds. Divide clams and mussels and arrange in very warm serving bowls. Add prawns to simmering stock for one minute, remove and place in bowls. When fish is finished, leave heat on but remove filets to serving bowls. Deglaze pan with remaining half cup of wine, add herbs and scrape pan into stockpot. Remove stock pot from simmer and whisk in 2 tablespoons of the aïoli just til slightly thickened. Ladle this around fish and over shellfish. Place a dollop of aïoli on the end of each crostini and garnish each plate with one. The Aioli 4 cloves of garlic big pinch of coarse salt 2 egg yolks, at room temp or better yet rolled back and forth on your palm until warmed through, one minute 1 cup good but not too intense extra virgin olive oil. Ligurian oils are good for this. lemon juice to taste If you’re doing this in a mortar and pestle, grind the garlic with the salt until you have a smooth, shiny paste. Add egg yolks and grind until you have a sticky yellow paste. Make sure it’s all incorporated. At this point you can start drizzling in the oil in a very fine stream, continuously grinding. Don’t add too much or it may start to break. Once you have a very thick paste, you can transfer this to a bowl and finish with a whisk. To loosen it a bit, add a few drops of lemon juice. Once finished, set aside in the fridge. If this is being done in a food processor, start with the garlic and salt and add the egg yolks, just as above, and drizzle oil through the top of the machine until finished
[...] La Bourride « vinodoro I prefer monkish but sea bass, black cod, halibut and the like are just fine 16 large prawns or shrimp at least 1 oz each deveined through the shell which should be left on. 1 large leek trimmed, cleaned and scrubbed to remove dirt and chopped coarsely, If you're doing this in a mortar and pestle, grind the garlic with the salt until you have a smooth, shiny paste. Add egg yolks and grind until you have a sticky yellow paste. Make sure it's all incorporated. [...]