Whenever I feel that first autumnal nip in the air, as I did here a few times in LA this past July and August, my thoughts turn from chilled rosé and anything with aïoli to robust reds and bold, heady braises and roasts. In fact, winter is pretty much the only time of year that I eat red meat. My favorite recipes all have a couple things in common; they’re either French or Italian recipes and they’re both easy and inexpensive to make at home. One of my favorite resources for the French dishes I like is anything written by Richard Olney and this daube recipe, from his book Simple French Food , is one of my favorites.
This is a fairly typical beef and carrot daube at heart but the infusion of so many heady flavors, especially the essential addition of a bit of dried orange rind and salt pork, make this dish transcendent. I always serve it as a one dish meal which makes for an easy dinner party; put some Serge Gainsbourg on the hi-fi, open a couple of bottles of Champagne along with maybe some gougères to start it off and finish with a great cheese selection and fresh fruit.
This is a really versatile dish in terms of wine pairing and I’ve served everything from simple southern French blends to old Barolo with success. At the moment, I think I’d reach for the following:
Domaine du Trapadis Rasteau Les Adrès 2007 buy it here
Domaine Coursodon Saint-Joseph 2005 buy it here
Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 buy it here
Marcarini Barolo Brunate 2005 buy it here
Daube Provençale
enough for ten with leftovers
enough 7 bone steak to yield 4-5 lbs. make sure it’s at least 1.5 inches thick. have butcher bone it for you if possible
8oz salt pork with skin. if larding, remove skin and set aside and make matchsticks with rest. if not, cut into cubes
1 bottle good quality, unoaked white wine like sauvignon blanc
1/2 cup cognac or dry brandy
2 TB olive oil
2 cups tomato pieces, seeds removed
2 lbs white mushrooms
lots of garlic
1 big brown onion
6 large carrots, peeled and sliced fairly thin but not shaved
1 large bunch flat leaf parsley + more for marinade/larding/finishing
2 bay leaves
2 strips dried orange rind
1 qt veal stock, sort of diluted, not demi-glace
1 large daubiere (le creuset oval or some such vessel)
enough cheesecloth for three layers in daubiere
1 strip linen
1 cup flour slurry
egg noodles, preferably homemade and rough cut
-cut beef into large cubes, something like two per person at 3oz each
-mince a handful of parsley and garlic together. like 4 cloves and a cup of parsley
-if you have the inclination to do so, roll salt pork matchsticks in parsley/garlic and lard beef with ones strip per cube. otherwise don’t worry about it.
-put beef in large bowl with bottle of wine, cognac, olive oil and parsley/garlic and a few twists of black pepper. let sit for no more than a few hours.
-chop mushrooms, onion and a few cloves of garlic finely together to make duxelles. food processor ok for mushrooms and garlic but not onion.
-divide parsely bunch and make two bouquets garnis by tying together 1/2 bunch with bay and orange rind.
-place half the salt pork skin or cubes and tomato pieces in bottom of daubiere. cover with cheese cloth and place half the beef and half the carrots on top. cover with more cheese cloth and add half the duxelles and both bouquet garni side by side in opposite directions. cover with cheese cloth and build one more layer with salt pork/tomato, cheese cloth, beef/carrots etc. the idea is that you’re only eating the beef, carrots and cooking liquid. pack pretty tightly.
-add marinade and veal stock + water to cover if necessary.
-drag linen strip through slurry and seal pot with it.
-i always give it a head start on the stove top but place in a 275 oven for at least 8 hours. don’t let it bubble too strongly.
when finished, carefully remove layers of things you don’t want and set aside those that you, do i.e. meat and carrots. strain, clean out daubiere and put stock back on stove.
cook egg noodles very al dente, about halfway, and finish by cooking in the simmering stock. this is called the macaronade. drain noodles, being careful to reserve the stock, and start plating in deep, warm bowls.
finish by tossing noodles with butter and a bit more stock and plating in deep bowls. allow noodles to soak up stock and dust with minced parsley. add a ladle of stock, place beef on top and sprinkle with fleur de sel et voila!
