The 2008 vintage in Bugundy is probably the most difficult I’ve ever encountered to taste out of cask. I actually tried to do this a few months ago but even after over a year from harvest, they were not just difficult but virtually impossible to approach. The few wines that had finished their malos were raw and laden with CO2 and reductive notes, virtually none had been racked. Those were the most pleasant of the bunch. This time things are a bit different but after a full day of tasting it’s clear that the 2008′s are a rather quiet bunch. The reds overall have pretty if subtle fresh pinot aromas and rather intense, chiseled textures. Still not easy to get through and nothing like the 2005′s which were a joy to drink young; they were born practically resolved. These are going to need much more time.
The Domaine Comte de Vogüé is one of the great addresses here and own 70% of Musigny, my favorite source of great Burgundy. Of course, it’s bloody expensive stuff and the occasions are rare indeed where I’ve been able to taste it. I remember every one of those instances which is partly due to their scarcity but mainly due to the fact that these wines are so unforgettable. I’ve been to the domaine a number of times and it’s the visit I look forward to most of all. The wines are always incredible but the real reason I love coming here is to listen to régisseur François Millet talk about his wines, history, philosophy and literature and how they’re all connected. In addition to his considerable talents in the cellar, he’s clearly well read and is probably the most thoughtful winemaker I’ve ever encountered. As we were tasting today, he spent at least 20 minutes describing in great detail the 2008 vintage and phenolic ripeness, finally referencing Molière’s le Bourgeois Gentilhomme as an allegory. The 17th century story about a middle class Frenchman trying to rise above his station in life, an exercise in futility which relates brilliantly to current arguments among Burgundian vignerons and wine critics regarding phenolics. His thoughts are that nature gives you unique conditions every vintage and you make do. If the skins aren’t perfectly ripe, they rarely are in any event, it’s no big deal. Pinot noir doesn’t work like other varietals such as cabernet where unripe phenolics can be disastrous (unless your making wine in Alto Adige for instance) That’s another discussion entirely but it’s a welcome diversion from the soporific conversation so typical of most cellar discourse.
The 2008 Musigny here is stupendous and I think I woke up tasting it yesterday morning. Incredibly dense yet impossibly weightless with a brilliant, gossamer texture and in my mind a perfect wine (if there is such a thing) Bottling scheduled for April, release in the fall. Estimated cost @$500.
[...] and Bonnes-Mares, it’s a pretty tough house to ignore. Much like the offerings of Mugnier and De Vogüé, the Amoureuses here is generally more interesting than the Bonnes-Mares though the comparison [...]